NEVER Use a Circular Saw Like This (Most Beginners Do)
Over 40,000 circular saw injuries happen every year in the United States. Nearly 97 percent of those happen in home shops and garages, not on job sites. Most of them come from a handful of mistakes nobody ever bothered to teach you.
In the video above I walk through the 10 circular saw mistakes I see most often, from the death pinch to dangerous hand placement to using the wrong blade. Below you will find every tool I mentioned, grouped by category, including the DeWALT 20v Circular Saw, the Kreg Rip Cut, and the Milwaukee M18 Track Saw. Use this as your reference for the next time you pick up a saw.
Best Cordless Circular Saws for Beginners and Pros
1. DeWALT 20v Brushless Cordless Circular Saw
The DeWALT 20v Circular Saw is one of the saws I reach for the most when I am working outside the shop. It runs on the same battery platform as the rest of my DeWALT tools, which keeps things simple. The base is metal and feels solid when you tilt for bevel cuts.
If you already own DeWALT batteries, this is the easy answer. Brushless gives you more power per charge than the older brushed models. It handles dimensional lumber and sheet goods without bogging down.
For most home shop and DIY work, this saw has more than enough muscle. It is best for anyone who wants one cordless saw that can do it all without jumping platforms.
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2. RYOBI 18v Gen 2 Brushless Circular Saw
The Gen 2 Ryobi 7-1/4 inch is the cordless circular saw I recommend for anyone already on the Ryobi 18v platform. The new base is a huge upgrade over the older versions, and the bevel mechanism feels solid instead of plasticky. That matters more than people realize because a flimsy base deflects on thicker cuts.
Brushless motor and a 7-1/4 inch blade mean you can cut a full 2x4 in one pass at 45 degrees. Runtime on a 4ah battery is plenty for a long day of framing or breakdown work.
For the price point, this is one of the best values in cordless circular saws right now. It is best for the DIY user who wants serious capability without buying into a pro-level platform.
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3. RIDGID 18v Cordless Circular Saw
The RIDGID 18v Circular Saw is a strong option for the Ridgid platform users out there. The lifetime service agreement is what pulls a lot of folks into the brand to begin with. Build quality on the current generation has come a long way.
You get a brushless motor, a metal shoe, and solid power for cutting framing lumber and plywood. It is a saw I would put in front of a beginner without hesitation.
This one is best for the DIYer who already owns Ridgid drills and impacts and wants to round out the kit. The platform is mature enough that batteries and chargers are easy to find.
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4. Milwaukee 18v M18 Cordless Circular Saw
The Milwaukee 18v Circular Saw is built for users who push their tools hard. M18 has the deepest pro tool lineup of any cordless platform, and this saw plays nicely with the rest of it. The base is rock solid and the bevel adjustments feel like they will hold up for years.
Power delivery is right at the top of the cordless class. It handles thick stock and aggressive cuts without complaining.
This is the saw I would buy if I were a working pro or a serious hobbyist who wants a tool that will outlast a job site. The price reflects that, but you get what you pay for.
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Corded and Worm Drive Circular Saws for Heavy Work
5. Corded Circular Saws for Shop Use
Corded circular saws still have a place in the shop, especially if you do a lot of cutting in one spot. You never have to worry about batteries dying mid project. Power delivery is consistent from the first cut to the last.
If you mostly cut at a fixed bench or saw horse setup, a corded saw saves you money over the long haul. No batteries to replace every few years.
This category is best for anyone who wants maximum value per dollar or who is not bought into a cordless battery platform yet.
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6. SKILSAW Worm Drive Saw for Maximum Power
The SKILSAW Wormdrive Saw is the beast of the circular saw world. Worm drive gearing puts more torque to the blade than a standard sidewinder. If you are cutting wet lumber, thick stock, or running long sessions, this is the saw that will not slow down.
Old timers in my family used to just call any circular saw a skill saw because the brand was that dominant. The worm drive line is what built that reputation.
This one is best for framers, deck builders, and anyone who needs raw power. It is heavier than a sidewinder, so it is not the right pick for overhead or finish work.
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Track Saws for Cutting Plywood and Sheet Goods
7. Makita Track Saw for Clean Plywood Cuts
If you cut plywood on a regular basis, a track saw will change how you work. The Makita Track Saw is my pick if you want a corded option that does not lock you into a battery platform. Cuts come off the blade glass smooth with almost no tear out.
Breaking down a full sheet of 3/4 inch plywood becomes a one person job. No more wrestling sheets across a table saw.
This is the best track saw for cabinet builders, shelf makers, and anyone tired of fighting sheet goods. It is the favorite woodworking tool I own.
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8. Milwaukee M18 Cordless Track Saw
If you are already on the M18 platform and you want to skip the cord, the Milwaukee M18 Track Saw is the move. Cordless freedom on a track saw is a game changer when you are working off site or moving around the shop. The cut quality matches what you expect from a premium track saw.
Power delivery on M18 batteries is strong enough to cut through full sheets of plywood without slowing down. Track compatibility is solid across most major brands.
This is best for the serious hobbyist or pro who wants the convenience of cordless and the precision of a track saw in the same tool.
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Cutting Guides for Accurate Circular Saw Cuts
9. Speed Square as a Crosscut Guide
A Speed Square is the cheapest and most useful crosscut guide you can own. Lay it on the workpiece, butt the shoe of the saw against it, and you get a dead square cut every time. It also works for cutting any angle you want by pivoting against the lip.
I have had the same one for years and it still pays for itself almost every project. For narrow boards, this is all you need.
Best for anyone making framing cuts, trim cuts, or any short crosscut where a full guide is overkill.
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10. Milescraft Track Saw Guide for Any Circular Saw
The Milescraft Track Saw Guide turns just about any circular saw into a track saw for a fraction of the cost. It fits most major brands and gives you long, straight, repeatable cuts across full sheets of plywood. If you are not ready to buy a dedicated track saw, this is the upgrade I tell people to start with.
Setup is simple and the guide stays put while you cut. Tear out is much better than freehand cuts with the same blade.
Best for the DIYer who cuts plywood occasionally and wants better results without dropping serious money on a track saw.
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11. Skateplate Edge Guide for Ripping
The Skateplate Guide is a smaller edge guide that mounts to nearly any circular saw. It rides along the edge of your workpiece so you can rip narrow strips without freehanding. Great for repeatable cuts on smaller stock.
It is not built for full sheet plywood, but for shop tasks and trim work it does the job well. Simple to attach and remove.
Best for ripping smaller pieces where you do not need a full track or long guide.
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12. Kreg Rip Cut Edge Guide for Repeatable Cuts
The Kreg Rip Cut is the guide I reach for when I need repeatable rips up to 24 inches wide. It mounts to your circular saw and lets you dial in an exact width, then run that same cut over and over. Perfect for breaking down plywood for cabinet sides or shelves.
Kreg just released a new improved version that is even better than the original. If you have ever tried to wrestle a 4x8 sheet across a table saw, this tool is a relief.
Best for cabinet builders, shelf makers, and anyone doing repeatable rip cuts in plywood.
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13. Straight Edge Saw Guide for Long Cuts
A clamping Straight Edge Saw Guide is the budget answer to a track saw. Clamp it down, line up your blade, and ride the shoe against it for a long, straight cut. I have used a 4 foot level for years to do the same thing.
This is a tool you will reach for any time you need a longer cut than a Speed Square can guide. Cheap, simple, and effective.
Best for anyone on a budget who needs to break down sheet goods or rip long boards.
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Work Support: Saw Horses, Workbenches, and Clamps
14. Kobalt Saw Horse with Gritty Top Surface
The Kobalt Saw Horse is the one I show in the video. The tops have a sandpaper like grit that grabs your stock and keeps it from sliding. That extra friction prevents a lot of the small movements that lead to bad cuts and kickback.
Build quality is solid for the price. They fold up flat for storage and set up in seconds.
Best for anyone who works outside a fixed bench setup and needs reliable support for breaking down lumber.
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15. Klein Mobile Workbench for Cordless Work
The Klein Mobile Workbench is a portable workbench you can roll into any project. Built in clamping lets you secure stock without scrambling for hand clamps. Stable workpiece equals safer cut.
It is sized for real work without being so big you cannot move it around the shop or garage. Holds up to job site abuse.
Best for the DIYer or pro who needs one bench that works at home and on the road.
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16. Irwin Quick Clamps for Holding Stock
Irwin Quick Clamps are the one handed clamps I grab when I am setting up a cut. Squeeze the trigger and you have your stock locked down. They work just as well for holding a straight edge guide in place as they do for holding the workpiece.
You should own a stack of these. Two is a minimum, four is better.
Best for any shop where setup speed matters and you do not want to fight with traditional bar clamps every time you make a cut.
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Circular Saw Blades for Cleaner, Safer Cuts
17. 7-1/4 Inch Circular Saw Blades for Plywood and Framing
The 7-1/4 inch blade is the most common size for full size circular saws. For plywood and sheet goods, step up to a 50 to 60 tooth blade. The factory 24 tooth blade is fine for framing but will tear out plywood badly.
Keep a clean blade in the saw too. Pitch and sap buildup makes the blade run hotter and cut worse.
Best for anyone who wants cleaner cuts without buying a new saw. A better blade is the cheapest upgrade you can make.
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18. 6-1/2 Inch Circular Saw Blades for Compact Saws
If you run a compact cordless circular saw, you need 6-1/2 inch blades. Same rules apply. Higher tooth count for sheet goods, lower tooth count for framing.
Keep a few on hand so you can swap based on the job. A fresh blade cuts safer because you do not have to force it through the cut.
Best for users of compact cordless saws like the smaller DeWALT and Milwaukee models.
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19. CMT Demolition Saw Blades for Nail Embedded Lumber
If you cut reclaimed lumber, pallet wood, or do any kind of demolition work, you need a dedicated demolition blade. The CMT Demolition Saw Blades will cut through nails, screws, and staples without going dull on the first hit. A standard wood blade will be ruined in seconds.
I drove four screws into a piece of plywood for a demo on the channel, and this blade cut right through them. That is not something a framing blade can do.
Best for anyone working with reclaimed material or doing teardown work where unknown metal is a real risk.
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20. Simple Green Cleaner for Pitch and Sap Buildup
A dull blade is often just a dirty blade. Pitch and sap from pine and other softwoods bakes onto the teeth and makes the blade cut like garbage. Simple Green Cleaner sprayed on the blade and worked in with a brush takes that buildup right off.
It is cheap, it works, and it can save you from buying a new blade you do not actually need. Try cleaning before you replace.
Best for any shop that runs blades through a lot of resinous softwood and wants to stretch blade life.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common circular saw injury?
Kickback caused by a pinched blade is the most common circular saw injury. The saw jumps back toward the user with the blade still spinning. Most of these happen in home shops, not on job sites, because beginners cut between two supports and pinch the blade.
How deep should a circular saw blade be set?
Set the blade so the teeth drop about a quarter inch below the bottom of the workpiece. Anything deeper exposes more blade than you need and increases tear out on the cut. Shallower depth also gives you a cleaner cut on plywood.
Why does my circular saw shut off mid cut?
Most cordless circular saws have a safety feature that cuts power if the blade is bogged down or starts in contact with the wood. Push too hard and the saw shuts off to protect the motor. Start the blade in the air, let it reach full speed, then ease into the cut.
Should the good side of plywood face up or down on a circular saw?
Put the good side face down when cutting with a circular saw. The blade cuts on the upstroke, so the underside stays cleaner. Painters tape on the top side helps reduce splintering even more.
What blade do I need to cut plywood with a circular saw?
Use a high tooth count blade, around 50 to 60 teeth, for plywood and sheet goods. The factory blade that comes on most saws is a 24 tooth framing blade. It will work but you will get a lot more tear out.
Do I need a track saw if I already own a circular saw?
If you cut plywood once in a while, a Milescraft track saw guide or a Kreg Rip Cut will get the job done. If you cut sheet goods often for cabinets or shelves, a dedicated track saw is worth every penny. It is the best tool I own for breaking down plywood.
Prices and availability were accurate at time of publishing and may change. Always click through to confirm current pricing. Some links in this post are affiliate links. 731 Woodworks may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
